We started out with our complimentary breakfast on the penthouse level of the Hotel Runcu. I started with strawberry yogurt, cornflakes with quinoa, scrambled eggs, pesto potatoes and a pork/onion roll. This was served with coffee, fresh squeeze orange juice and tea. I was rather surprised that they didn't serve a continental breakfast and that they had allotted the entire 8th floor to serving food at the restaurant they called Cafeteria. I loved the presentation of the food but would have asked for the eggs to be cooked more as I noticed Peruvians love their eggs still runny and not to order the pork/onion roll as it was cold and the meat was tough.
After breakfast it was off to sightseeing. First stop was the Church of San Francisco. They are famous for their architecture and catacombs (tombs). This was one of my favorite museums I visited on my trip. Sorry there are photo's but cameras were not allowed inside.
We had an English guide to took us to see the original dome that was built without scaffolding but with just pressure. It was a gorgeous wooden lattice made some local wood that was just phenomenal. Everything was being done to preserve everything the way it was despite earthquakes, time and weather. On the walls around the church were originals murals with murals underneath that they discovered as they were doing restoration work. It was amazing to see original art that have survived 200 plus years.
We just so happened to go on a Sunday so we were able to watch the service from the upper chambers. It was such a treat to have the access to see the congregation from the top chambers where monks used to work and pray. The highlight of the trip for me was the library. They had old choir books made from sheepskin they weighed over 80 pounds and were over 2 feet high. It was truly jaw dropping to see all these old handwritten books with original drawings that have survived over the years. The second highlight of the trip was the catacombs. To see all the bones just piled up in open graves from people who were buried over the years was astonishing. I can't imagine working at the church and having to bury a fresh body or the stench of rotting bodies it must have had esp. with the access panels connecting it the main room for service for easy access to the catacombs. I'm glad it was cleaned out and no longer used as a cemetery anymore. It was definitely an experience but you can't be claustrophobic as the catacombs are narrow and have only one way in and one way out.
Next up is the Peruvian House of Literature, Plaza de Armas, Government Palace and Cathedral of Lima. The Peruvian House of Literature is supposed to house some of the oldest books in Peru, but it is not accessible to everyone. It is only worth a quick 5 minute walk through to see the architecture of the building.
Plaza de Armas is a great place to take photo's. It has a great fountain and is in the middle of everything. If I had more time, it would be a great place to read a book or sit and just people watch while eating ice cream.
The Government Palace has a changing of the guard every hour. It's a great place to see the traditional military uniforms of Peru and hear the national anthem of Peru. Get there early to watch the show which lasts about 30 minutes. Be cautious not to go too close to the gate as they have many heavily armed guards surrounding the building.
Last up is the Cathedral of Lima. It was a great old church with traditional gold leaf and magnificent lighting. We weren't able to walk around freely as there was a service but you could feel the magic that the place once had. You would feel the richness, history and untold stories.
Next stop was Huaca Pullana. It is an archaeological site right in the middle of modern Lima. It had ruins from 500 AD that have been preserved. Apparently, as Lima was trying to build and modernize itself, they discovered Huaca Pullana. Even though there are more of the ruins still not yet discovered, the Peruvian government has halted additional digging to preserve what has been found. The view from the top of the ruins were spectacular. Who would have thought these ruins would have survived under the mountains all this time and remain intact for us to come visit over 1500 years later? It was a definite must visit for my trip to Lima.
To start off our first full day of the trip, Pisco Sours. For those of you who don't know what is a Pisco Sour, it is as follows:
9 shots of Pisco
1 shot of simple syrup
1 shot of fresh squeeze lime juice
1 shot of egg white
3 drops of bitters
First course was incredibly fresh ceviche. We ordered the classic ceviche which had only fish, red onions, cilantro, fresh corn, sweet potatoes and roasted corn all marinated in fresh lime juice. I learned that ceviche doesn't need to be marinated overnight, just a mere ten minutes for incredibly fresh fish. The ceviche at Restaurant Huaca Pullana was the best I have ever had. It was so buttery, soft and perfectly seasoned. It didn't taste limey, fishy or sour. All I tasted was the freshness of the fish, crisp toppings and light sauce. I still have dreams about this perfect ceviche.
Our main course consisted of grilled seabass with a red quninoa crust and Andean trout (which is pink like salmon) with huacatay butter. For those who don't know, huacatay is a Peruvian herb which tastes like mint that gives a lot of the foods a freshness that regular mint or cilantro can't. It's quite delicious and the bonus is that gives you fresh breath after you eat and it doesn't over power your food like a lot of herbs that we are used to in the US. Red quinoa is also native to Peru. Quinoa as you know is considered a superfood and the healthiest grain you can eat esp. if you are trying to lose weight as it keeps you full for a long time. I personally loved both entree's equally though I loved the seabass more for the red quinoa crust texture. It has a grainy butteriness that pops with each bite that I found super amusing and tasty.
After a quick nap, (the Pisco Sours really knocked us out), it was off the Parque Reserva to watch the water circuit. It is a series of 10 water fountains that have light, sound and/or are interactive. It was a great place for young couples, families, children and grown up adults like me who just like to have a little fun while beating the heat. It is a good idea to get there when the sun goes down to try to beat the crowds as the later it got, the more people there were. Getting out of the park, there are some food stands selling local food and rows and rows of taxis. This part of Lima wasn't the most savory so try not to wear anything flashy and bargain with a few taxis before heading out.
Pardo's is the best and most affordable place to try pollo a la brasa which is essentially roasted chicken. It was juicy and well seasoned. It came with an enormous bucket of fries which weighed at least 2 pounds and three delicious dipping sauces. We also ordered a side of Peruvian corn which has huge kernels. Bonus part of that was it didn't get caught in your teeth and it was super juicy without any butter or salt. I would def. recommend ordering a 1/4 chicken per person instead of 1/2 chicken per person, which we did so you can enjoy more of the sides. Also if you are able to get there before 9 PM, they have chicha happy hour. Chicha is purple Peruvian corn which can be fermented and used in both alcoholic and non alcoholic drinks.
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